Ages later…the siding!!

Hi all!

It’s been ages since I posted on the tiny house. I have no idea how people are able to do this by themselves in just a few months. Perhaps they don’t have any other commitments? Or…a large building crew? Anyway. Progress HAS BEEN MADE!

I finished my MA work in May, and since then I’ve been working like a crazed person on the tiny house. It has been tagged and titled, and since I’m moving back to Missouri (about a 14 hour drive) I decided to be cautious and hire someone (with many certifications and a TON of liability insurance) to tow my house for me. Plus, a Honda Element can barely tow a mini-cooler, let alone a tiny (giant) house.

So, first…pictures! Since finishing the roof, I can say that, if you choose a roof style, try your best to avoid the decorative sloping front roof used by Tumbleweed. We all know I don’t love Tumbleweed (largely due to cost and massive errors in the expensive plans), but this design added 2 months and much cursing to the job. In addition, it took away precious space. But once you cut the ridge beam to move from regular gabled to “decorative”…you have committed.

So, roof is done. Now, for the siding. I went with some relatively pricey cedar, and I’ll tell you why. Not only is it gorgeous and aromatic, BUT, the initial cost up front actually ends up paying for itself. You don’t have to seal cedar. It is naturally mold, water, and bug resistant. It ages beautifully. Any other siding would need to be primed or sealed, so what you save up front really isn’t worth it in the end. (NB: if you do use cedar trim from a big-box store, you’ll need to seal that…it’s not from the same part of the tree, and therefore is not as awesome as the cedar siding!)

20150315_130129 <– OOoooooh, AHHHhhhhh!

So, before putting up the siding, I put trim on the edges of the house and around the windows. Be sure not to forget (as I did) to also place 1/4 inch treated furring strips under the trim as well as along the house (against the studs!). If you forget to do this, you’ll have to curse and go back to do it all over again so that your siding and trim don’t look ridiculous. The furring strips add a necessary gap for water drainage between the tyvek and the siding. Don’t skip this part! 😀

The most difficult part of this was cutting out the area for around the wheel wells. I used a large piece of craft poster paper, cut it out, and laid the siding on the template. Each piece of siding overlaps the next by 1 inch…just in case.

Also, most tell you to use nails on this part. Um…nope. Let’s split some really expensive cedar with nails! Also, look at all those silvery heads shining! Doesn’t it look….hideous? Yes. Hideous. I used camo deck screws, available at Home Depot. They have a very small head, didn’t split the cedar (unless you got crazy with the tightening, which I sometimes did at first), and are also a perfect brown color…camo, man. Get the camo.

20150315_163405Moving along…

20150322_155351Ooh, oooooh, it’s happening!

20150506_140823…..

20150604_155253BOOM. Beauty!!!

So, the siding is done! WHOO! Now on to the annoying details. Unless you’re a woodworking mastermind, you’ll end up with small gaps between the siding and the trim. I went back through (especially on the tongue side of the trailer, which withstands the most weather when on the road) and put pieces of those aforementioned treated furring strips in those gaps, regardless of how small. This eliminates the ability for water to get in (almost 100%). Though silicone might have provided a bit better seal, it would also be messier, more expensive, and definitely more noticeable.

So, now that you’re kind of caught up, I’ll catch you up more in the next few days! I’m almost to the insulation phase…so excited!

Thanks everyone! And as usual…if you have any questions, please feel free to contact me!

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About wanderingartemis

Full time indecisive grad student, new owner of tiny house trailer, awkward conversationalist, vagabond wannabe, sort-of anarchist, seeker of eternal adventure

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